York

Well, folks, we're almost finished with our tour. Only two places left--the northern city of York, and the southern capital, London (formerly Londinium). After our arrival at York, the first place we stopped at was York Minster, the largest cathedral (it's not really a minster after all) in Northern Europe and a fascinating example of multiple architectural styles coming together (the present cathedral was built over a period of about 250 years). It was right about this time that we started wearing Rowan and not pushing him around in the stroller. With no stroller for him to push around (for indeed, he was doing most of the pushing), Rowan began chasing pigeons with reckless abandon, especially since the birds never really flew that far away unless they just couldn't stand this crazy little shrieking boy chasing after them any more.

Rowan took his second swim in his short life thus far. The water was fairly cold (despite it being supposedly heated), and he developed a small fever shortly after. The blue truck you see was acquired at a shoe store in Kelso, Scotland. Rowan had outgrown his new shoes that he had been wearing for only a month, so we were forced to buy him new ones. The only thing that would get him to wear the new shoes is if the store owner parted with this little blue truck that used to belong to her now grown-up son. We made him walk in the shoes despite fierce protests, and every day after that, he wore them without incident.

On a street in front of York Minster, we manage to get another family shot. Rowan points to the minster, knocking Mama in the face. The blue truck is still a favorite companion. To our immediate left (not shown) is a statue of the emperor Constantine, who was crowned emperor in the 4th century not far from where we were standing, and later proclaimed religious tolerance for all Christians (after years and years of persecution). Constantine supposedly saw the Chi-Rho symbol in the sky with the phrase "in hoc signo vinces" splashed across at the battle of Milvian Bridge. He instructed all his soldiers to carve the symbol into their shields and won the battle, or so the story goes.

York Minster from the west, displaying the perpendicular style. The minster was built atop a Roman fort, which was then replaced by an old Anglo-Saxon church where King Edwin of Northumberland converted to Christianity in order to wed Aethelburgh and so gain control over more land. Later, a Norman church was built over both of these, expanding over time, and so began the construction of the present church over the next three centuries.

Another view of the minster at dusk.

Inside York Minster are beautiful examples of medieval architecture, including the original 12th century stained glass of the northern window, the largest surviving example (I think) in the world. Above, Rowan poses near the eastern part of the church with his little pink wooden tractor in the foreground. We bought the tractor from an old grandpa in Shrewsbury who makes them by hand--although many colors were available, Rowan insisted on the pink one. At home, he insists on his diapers being pink whenever possible.

Rowan stirs Daddy's cappuccino with slow, steady deliberation.

Rowan does his St. Francis impression on the steps of Clifford's Tower, a Norman citadel built during the time of William the Conqueror.

Rowan is disturbed by his dirty and demands that they be cleaned, oblivious to the ice cream on his face.

Mama and Rowan in the Shambles (an old street with leaning, Tudor-style buildings and quaint store-fronts), the place that a couple hundred years ago was lined entirely with butcher shops.

One of my all-time favorite pictures on this trip. Rowan works his mojo on a thoroughly entranced waitress at a cafe just opposite the minster. What is he saying to her? No, seriously, if anyone has any good captions let me know.

One of our final stops in York, the Railway Museum. We thought it would be great for Rowan to see a variety of REAL trains up close and personal. He had a fever at this point and was generally tired so he wasn't quite in the mood to see all of this, but he did have a pretty good time. The museum was probably the only free thing in York.

By the way, it's important to remember that in York, the streets are called "gates," the gates are called "bars," and the bars are called "pubs." Try to get that straight if you visit there.